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	<title>Maple Bonsai Blog &#187; bonsai tree</title>
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	<link>http://www.maplebonsaiblog.com</link>
	<description>All things Maple Bonsai ...</description>
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		<title>Banyans For Bonsai Novices</title>
		<link>http://www.maplebonsaiblog.com/bonsai/banyans-for-bonsai-novices</link>
		<comments>http://www.maplebonsaiblog.com/bonsai/banyans-for-bonsai-novices#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 09 Apr 2010 11:35:59 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[bonsai]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Banyan Bonsai]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[bonsai tree]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.maplebonsaiblog.com/bonsai/banyans-for-bonsai-novices</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>Although I have no experience with them, in the article below from India, novices are advised to start with Banyans, they are easy to maintain.</p>
<p>The one in the photo for this article is possibly not the best example.</p>
<p>However I agree with the philosophy on bonsai, that the tree can be any shape as long as [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://www.maplebonsaiblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/banyanbonsai.png"><img class="alignleft size-thumbnail wp-image-42" title="banyan bonsai" src="http://www.maplebonsaiblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/banyanbonsai-150x150.png" alt="" width="150" height="150" /></a>Although I have no experience with them, in the article below from India, novices are advised to start with Banyans, they are easy to maintain.</p>
<p>The one in the photo for this article is possibly not the best example.</p>
<p>However I agree with the philosophy on bonsai, that the tree can be any shape as long as it brings you pleasure. This take on the art of sculpting bonsai trees will not please the purist or master of bonsai. But most bonsai owners probably started out wanting to bring nature that little bit closer. So as long as they can find pleasure in its form then what else matters.</p>
<p>The bonsai may come in different styles that don&#8217;t easily comply with the formal Japanese bonsai styles, but not everyone wants to win shows with their bonsai.</p>
<p>All you bonsai growers in India now have a new bonsai association, based in Chennai.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.kqzyfj.com/click-3688431-241045"><br />
<img src="http://www.ftjcfx.com/image-3688431-241045" width="468" height="60" alt="Bonsai Boy" border="0"/></a></p>
<p>Take a look at the articel in full <a href="http://beta.thehindu.com/news/cities/Chennai/article389956.ece?homepage=true">here</a>.</p>
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		<title>Bosai Tree Watering – What Effects It?</title>
		<link>http://www.maplebonsaiblog.com/bonsai-tree/bosai-tree-watering-%e2%80%93-what-effects-it</link>
		<comments>http://www.maplebonsaiblog.com/bonsai-tree/bosai-tree-watering-%e2%80%93-what-effects-it#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 24 Mar 2010 17:09:20 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[bonsai tree]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[japanes bonsai]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[bonsai care]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[bonsai tree watering]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.maplebonsaiblog.com/?p=34</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>Following the previous article I wanted to outline the influences on the amount of water your bonsai tree requires.</p>
<p>But first how do you know if your bonsai tree is dry or not, there is no definitive answer it is mostly experience but try the following.</p>
<p>If the soil is damp from half way down the depth [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Following the previous article I wanted to outline the influences on the amount of water your bonsai tree requires.</p>
<p>But first how do you know if your bonsai tree is dry or not, there is no definitive answer it is mostly experience but try the following.</p>
<p>If the soil is damp from half way down the depth of the bonsai pot then give it a sprinkle, if it is wet leave it. Now your interpretation of wet soil in a bonsai pot may be different from mine, but wet and damp are different.</p>
<p>As you get to know your bonsai tree and its needs you will get better at this.</p>
<p>Now what things impinge on your bonsai trees desire for water, here are a few and a brief explanation.</p>
<p>1. Soil and the bonsai mix you are using. Certain types of bonsai soil hold more or less water, obviously the more water your bonsai soil holds the greater the time between watering.<br />
2. Disease and poor health. If your bonsai tree wilts, don’t assume it needs more water. First check the soil is dry then add water. If there is root rot present guess what more water is going to do?<br />
3. Bonsai pot size. The bigger the pot the more water it holds, the longer time before the bonsai will dry out.<br />
4. Atmospheric conditions such as the humidity. If it is humid there is more moisture in the air, this means that watering time for the bonsai tree can be increase, because less of it evaporates.<br />
5. Sunlight has so many influences on water consumption of your bonsai. The heat will dry the bonsai out. The increase in growth from the light will mean the bonsai provides it’s own shade that will allow longer between watering.</p>
<p>Now this is not a full outline of all the factors that will decide on your bonsai trees need for water and the time between watering. However it should make you aware of some of the things that can have an effect on your bonsai.</p>
<p>Remember you bonsai tree is artificially kept small both the top and the root system. Therefor getting the watering right is important. The ideal situation is to be watering on a regular basis once a day or every two days. The bonsai tree should be dry just before watering. This allows you and the bonsai to get into a routine.</p>
<p>Then if you suddenly have a hot spell or you leave it in direct sunlight, it is easier to predict your bonsai will need additional water or an extra watering.</p>
<p>Hope this helps you and your bonsai tree.</p>
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		<title>Bonsai, Bonsai Tree and Maple Bonsai – A New Dawn</title>
		<link>http://www.maplebonsaiblog.com/maple-bonsai/bonsai-bonsai-tree-and-maple-bonsai-%e2%80%93-a-new-dawn</link>
		<comments>http://www.maplebonsaiblog.com/maple-bonsai/bonsai-bonsai-tree-and-maple-bonsai-%e2%80%93-a-new-dawn#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 19 Mar 2010 10:09:24 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[bonsai]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[bonsai tree]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[maple bonsai]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[maple bonsai tree]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.maplebonsaiblog.com/?p=28</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>
Hi folks, well we finally got round to updating the Maple Bonsai Blog site, hope you like it. All the old articles and bonsai information is still available.</p>
<p>We plan on bringing more articles on maple bonsai obviously, but also covering more bonsai, bonsai trees and specialist stuff. The type of information will include articles on [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://www.maplebonsaiblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/bonsai-tree-set.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-32" title="bonsai-tree-set" src="http://www.maplebonsaiblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/bonsai-tree-set.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="166" /></a><br />
Hi folks, well we finally got round to updating the Maple Bonsai Blog site, hope you like it. All the old articles and bonsai information is still available.</p>
<p>We plan on bringing more articles on maple bonsai obviously, but also covering more bonsai, bonsai trees and specialist stuff. The type of information will include articles on other bonsai types such as Juniper bonsai, Oriental Ficus bonsai, Elm bonsai all these are indoor bonsai. We will include Red Maple bonsai, Japanese Wisteria bonsai and others such as the Cypress and Cedar bonsai.</p>
<p>In fact you name it we will write about it if it’s bonsai related. The articles and bonsai related features should start appearing on a more regular basis, with guest bonsai experts contributing and giving us the benefit of their years of bonsai experience.</p>
<p>Now as if this is not great news in itself we are hoping to be bringing more bonsai photos, bonsai videos and reviews of shows and bonsai related items. The types of thing we mean are bonsai tree pots, bonsai training tools, bonsai soil mixes etc.</p>
<p>Wow now that’s a lot of bonsai, how will we fit it all in. So my advice is as follows.</p>
<p>1) Let us know what you think about the new look maple bonsai blog<br />
2) Grab that RSS feed to keep up to date with all things bonsai<br />
3) Make any suggestions about things you would like to see<br />
4) Contribute if you wish, although we can’t guarantee inclusion<br />
5) Tell all your friends and family about this site</p>
<p>Now remember for bonsai information bookmark this site visit regularly and most of all enjoy both the Maple Bonsai Blog and of course your own Bonsai trees and bonsai plants.</p>
<p>By the way if you get all inspired and decide to buy something bonsai tree related through a link on this site we may make a small commission. Now you don’t have to but it helps pay the bills. But whatever enjoy it all for free and all the best Bonsai lovers.</p>
<p>The Maple Bonsai Team.</p>
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		<title>How to Choose a Bonsai Tree Present</title>
		<link>http://www.maplebonsaiblog.com/bonsai/how-to-choose-a-bonsai-tree-present</link>
		<comments>http://www.maplebonsaiblog.com/bonsai/how-to-choose-a-bonsai-tree-present#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 05 Nov 2009 22:24:59 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[bonsai]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[bonsai tree]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[buying bonsai]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.maplebonsaiblog.com/bonsai/how-to-choose-a-bonsai-tree-present</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>Lets face it a lot of people have fancied one of those  cute little bonsai tree&#8217;s for decorating a room or apartment.</p>
<p>So at one point or another a friend or relative in  desperation because of a lack of inspiration will buy them a bonsai they have  always wanted.</p>
<p>Now the vast majority of [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Lets face it a lot of people have fancied one of those  cute little bonsai tree&#8217;s for decorating a room or apartment.</p>
<p>So at one point or another a friend or relative in  desperation because of a lack of inspiration will buy them a bonsai they have  always wanted.</p>
<p>Now the vast majority of people have no idea at all on  the basics of bonsai let alone the finer details.</p>
<p>So how do they or you go about buying that dream bonsai  tree without ruining a perfectly good relationship.</p>
<p>Simple follow these 3 basic rules or write them down and  give them to the person you suspect will be purchasing that bonsai tree, you  have always said you wanted.</p>
<p>1. Pick a bonsai that has good roots and branches. We do  not want exposed mouldy roots or snapped, stripped branches. No need to be a  Japanese bonsai master, poor roots and branches any one can spot.</p>
<p>2. Check the complete bonsai tree over, no apparent  damage, diseases or infestation. Again no need to be a bonsai doctor use common  sense when assessing the bonsai, you can even ask the garden center staff.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.kqzyfj.com/click-3688431-241045"><br />
<img src="http://www.ftjcfx.com/image-3688431-241045" width="468" height="60" alt="Bonsai Boy" border="0"/></a></p>
<p>3. Go for something that looks like the ones you see in  pictures. If it looks like a classic maple bonsai, has good bonsai type roots  and branches, and has no nasty things you don&#8217;t see on bonsai pictures. Then  guess what it probably is a great little bonsai tree. In this part were looking  for the shape and form of the bonsai and is it suitably potted, we don&#8217;t want a  novice having to re-pot there bonsai tree as soon as they get it.</p>
<p>Now these are very basic pointers but they should go a  long way towards helping you get one of the better Bonsai that you see in DIY or  other large retail outlets.</p>
<p>Enjoy the start of your new bonsai tree  collection.</p>
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		<title>What to do at this time of year?</title>
		<link>http://www.maplebonsaiblog.com/bonsai/what-to-do-at-this-time-of-year</link>
		<comments>http://www.maplebonsaiblog.com/bonsai/what-to-do-at-this-time-of-year#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 03 Feb 2009 06:00:59 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[bonsai]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[bonsai tree]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[japanese maple bonsai]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[maple bonsai]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[red maple bonsai]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.maplebonsaiblog.com/bonsai/what-to-do-at-this-time-of-year</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>First let me say this information is for those of us in the northern hemisphere, for all those down south&#160; it will be a little (approx. 6 months) out of sync. People keep asking me what to do with their Maple Bonsai in the winter. Well the answer is not a lot, if your bonsai [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>First let me say this information is for those of us in the northern hemisphere, for all those down south&nbsp; it will be a little (approx. 6 months) out of sync. People keep asking me what to do with their Maple Bonsai in the winter. Well the answer is not a lot, if your bonsai is an outdoor tree leave it outside. You can protect it from the worst frost or winds to stop it drying out but that is about it.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>The winter is a dormant period for most trees, so let it rest. Whatever you do do not feed as if there is a break in the weather you bonsai may start to sprout new growth. This could be a disaster if the cold weather returns again.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>Here is an article outlining a basic yearly schedule for Bonsai growing, hope this is useful.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
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<td><strong> <span> <span style="font-family: Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: small;">The Maple Year</span></span></strong><span style="font-family: Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /> <span>Author &#8211; Craig Coussins</span><br /> <img src="http://www.bonsaicollector.com/images/trans.gif" border="0" width="1" height="5" /></span></td>
<td align="right"><a href="mailto:?subject=bonsai+article+from+BonsaiCollector.com&amp;body=www.bonsaicollector.com/articles/ramification.html+-+I+thought+you+might+be+interested+in+this+bonsai+article."><br /></a></td>
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<hr width="100%" size="2" noshade="noshade" />
</p>
<p align="left"><span style="font-family: Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">To  										facilitate readers in other countries I have used seasons as well as UK months.  										Please remember that you must take into consideration the variables found  										within temperature in your own country.<br /> </span></p>
<p align="left"><span style="font-family: Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: small;"><strong><span style="font-size: x-small;">Early  												Spring</span></strong></span><span style="font-family: Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"> (<em>February to March)</em><br /> Although you can repot almost anytime this is the optimum period for the  										majority of Maples. Kashima and Kiyohime will have started to move at this  										time. Make sure they are protected. / Feed o.10.10. (Zero Nitrogen) every 7  										days to stop lush growth but only after the buds have opened.</span></p>
<p align="left"><span style="font-family: Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"> <strong>Throughout  											Spring </strong>(<em>March to May</em>)<br /> Start plucking out the bud centres</p>
<p> <strong>Early Summer </strong>(<em>June</em>)<br /> After the first two feeds start feed High Nitrogen feed to build stamina on  										young trees. If you want good Autumn colour cut down your High Nitrogen food.  										If tree is healthy then consider full or partial defoliation. This can be  										followed with selective wiring. Remember that the tree will have to be looked  										after as the same as February to May or Spring. The problem in Summer  										defoliation is Sun Burn rather than winds.</span></p>
<p align="left"><span style="font-family: Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><strong>Mid Summer</strong> (<em>July</em>)<br /> Wire trees with Cage (not tight) or protected wire and do any major pruning at  										this time during summer dormancy. Reduce feeding until mid August or late mid  										summer.</span></p>
<p align="left"><span style="font-family: Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><strong>Late Summer</strong> (<em>August</em>)<br /> Start a weekly feed with low Nitrogen food. Last time for defoliation before  										fall.</span></p>
<p align="left"><span style="font-family: Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><strong>Early Autumn  											/ Fall</strong> (<em>September</em>)<br /> Trim all leaves that grow out of the planned shape. Stop feeding if leaves  										start to change colour. It should be noted that good fall colour is achieved  										with little of no feed&#8230;.but the question is whether or not you want to risk  										the tree&#8217;s health for a short term benefit. </span></p>
<p align="left"><span style="font-family: Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><strong>Autumn /  											Fall</strong> (October)<br /> Complete your feeding with low or Zero Nitrogen Feed </span></p>
<p align="left"><span style="font-family: Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"> <strong>Late Autumn  											/ Early Winter</strong> (November)<br /> Remove any dead leaves and make sure that the trees are protected against  										winter frosts and wind. </span></p>
<p align="left"><span style="font-family: Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><strong>Winter</strong> (December to January)<br /> This is the other time when you can perform major surgery on your Bonsai.</span></p>
<p>Author &#8211; Craig Coussins<br /> Website: <a href="http://www.bonsaiinformation.co.uk/">http://www.bonsaiinformation.co.uk</a></p>
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<blockquote class="gn_c"><p>&nbsp;</p></blockquote>
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		<title>Japanese Maple Bonsai and Zen Buddhist Philosophy</title>
		<link>http://www.maplebonsaiblog.com/maple-bonsai/japanese-maple-bonsai/japanese-maple-bonsai-and-zen-buddhist-philosophy</link>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 30 Sep 2008 12:51:14 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[japanese maple bonsai]]></category>
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		<description><![CDATA[<p></p>
<p style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">The Japanese Maple Bonsai play an important part in the structure and design of Japanese gardens. Not just the aesthetic appearance and texture but also on a spiritual level. The art of bonsai goes beyond horticulture and is part of the Zen Buddhist philosophy. Zen and Shinto traditions both play a large part [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img src="http://wwwdelivery.superstock.com/Image/1566/200604/Thumb/1566-281746.jpg" border="0" alt="Bonsai tree" width="150" height="100" /></p>
<p style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">The Japanese Maple Bonsai play an important part in the structure and design of Japanese gardens. Not just the aesthetic appearance and texture but also on a spiritual level. The art of bonsai goes beyond horticulture and is part of the Zen Buddhist philosophy. Zen and Shinto traditions both play a large part in the design and lay out of gardens. The idea of Zen Buddhism is to be in harmony with nature and not  obtrusive to it. Buddhism sees nature as having a soul, so this personifies it, and means it should be respected. The traditional bonsai artists believe that the purpose of this arts miniature approach is to promote the shrinking of human foibles such as greed and self-centred thinking. These bad traits of man promote the unthinking destruction of all of nature according to the belief.</p>
<p style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">All of the different parts of the bonsai have particular meanings of their own in the Zen Buddhist belief system. For instance the branches stretch towards the sky seeking a richer thought process or enlightenment. The stout trunk carries the responsibility of promoting the spread of the philosophy. The sturdy roots stand for a concrete grounding in the philosophy, which is ultimately bound for heaven.</p>
<p style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">Maple Bonsai fit into this as they are one of the species that take well to the formal upright style and go well with the skyward stretch towards enlightenment. They are also good candidates for the informal upright style. In this style the trunks is supposed to bend to one side or the other, but not in the direction of the admirer. This mimics the natural bending of trees away from the shading of other trees or objects, or the effects of the wind over time. As stated these trees have a strong upright tendency this  makes them  particularly suited to these two styles. The Maple Bonsai can also work well with the slanting bonsai style, however it isn&#8217;t a good candidate for the cascading or the semi-cascading style.</p>
<p style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">Although the philosophy of Zen Buddhism and its part in bonsai is interesting,  it isn&#8217;t a necessary requirement for the cultivating and the enjoyment of these little trees. Today all over the world bonsai  fans enjoy a wonderful hobby, that certainly can help you to be peaceful and in tune with nature, but you don&#8217;t have to adhere to a Buddhist belief. It can just be used as a tool for decorating the inside or outside of the home.</p>
<p style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">The bonsai tree can sometimes live for hundreds of years if cared for correctly. They are a lovely, peaceful piece of art that can be given to your children, and this can be repeated for generations to come. These trees are a personal expression of the artist, and therefore no two trees are the same, as in nature. It takes patience to learn how to create a bonsai and failure is common at first, but as mentioned  patience is the key. If you want to become a bonsai master it takes time and effort, but you don&#8217;t have to be a master to create and enjoy your own bonsai. Just learn some basics, get a tree, and keep it healthy. Enjoy your Maple Bonsai in whatever way suites you, as a piece of art, decoration, or a spiritual representation of nature.</p>
<p style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">&nbsp;</p>
<p style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">&nbsp;</p>
<p style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">&nbsp;</p>
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		<title>Chinese Shantung Maple Bonsai and Root Over Rock Style</title>
		<link>http://www.maplebonsaiblog.com/maple-bonsai-tree/chinese-shantung-maple-bonsai-and-root-over-rock-style</link>
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		<pubDate>Fri, 26 Sep 2008 13:38:18 +0000</pubDate>
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				<category><![CDATA[maple bonsai tree]]></category>
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		<description><![CDATA[<p></p>
<p>This particular maple seedling is another fast grower. One of it&#8217;s main features is it tends to be bulbous at the base. The bark is a distinctive gray/white and the leaves similarly to other maples are five pointed. A couple of good aspects about this Maple Bonsai particularly for the less experienced is they have [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://www.maplebonsaiblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/chineseelmrootsoverrock.jpg"><img class="alignleft size-medium wp-image-27" title="chineseelmrootsoverrock" src="http://www.maplebonsaiblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/chineseelmrootsoverrock-217x300.jpg" alt="" width="217" height="300" /></a></p>
<p>This particular maple seedling is another fast grower. One of it&#8217;s main features is it tends to be bulbous at the base. The bark is a distinctive gray/white and the leaves similarly to other maples are five pointed. A couple of good aspects about this <strong>Maple Bonsai</strong> particularly for the less experienced is they have a high resistance to disease and can handle a period of drought. This tree can therefor be displayed on it&#8217;s own or is ideal for the root over rock style.</p>
<p>This is a style wherein the roots are encouraged to grow over and grasp onto a rock. This mimics what happens in nature when a bird deposits a seed into a natural crevice. The roots will crawl out in an effort to find soil, to get more nutrients after using what could be taken from the soil in the small opening in the rock. When they hit soil they then circumvent the rock. When this occurs the roots thicken out and stand in for the trunk at the very base of the tree.</p>
<p>The display of rocks is an art form of it&#8217;s own in Japan called Suiseki, this is one reason rock choice follows a few rules in this method. For starters these are, the rock chosen should have eye appeal, a natural look, and the size shouldn&#8217;t over shadow the tree, which after all is the main attraction.</p>
<p>Again the choice of tree for this style needs to be made correctly. A tree that is healthy and has a big root system is a good choice. The roots need to be strong and long enough to hang over the rock. The measurement guide for the roots is one and a half times longer than the rock is high. If the roots of the bonsai you want to use are too short, the problem is solved by planting it in a tall narrow pot so the root system will grow down and get longer. Let the roots grow until they reach the desired length, which may take a year or more, as with all bonsai patience is the key.</p>
<p>When the roots are ready remove damaged foliage and rinse the dirt off of the root ball. Don&#8217;t hurt the roots, before washing taking off dirt by hand helps. Now put the tree on the rock and play with the placement to find the best looking arrangement of tree and rock. Put the roots around all of the rock because the arrangement is for viewing from any side. This is not usual in bonsai where the tree normally is expected to be viewed from the front only.</p>
<p>Now the roots have to be secured. Grafting tape is a good thing to use and having someone hold the roots  in place while securing them works best. You need to have pulled the tape around the rock fairly tight except at the bottom where it should be tape-less because this is where the roots will go into the dirt.</p>
<p>Next check to see that all of the roots are free on the bottom of the rock. Put the rock and maple bonsai in a container with plenty of clean sharp sand. Make sure the bottom of the tree trunk shows, while the rock is out of sight. Give it a good watering; the tree should stay in this pot for either one year or possibly two. Remember I did say the key to bonsai was patience. It will take one growing season for the roots to exhibit a good showing and during this period they will thicken up. However this does depend on them having been placed correctly. Two years gives the roots really more than sufficient time to thicken. When you check to see if the roots have grow properly and find they haven&#8217;t, no worries, simply re-pot them giving the plant one more year to get the roots right.</p>
<p>So as you can see from the description above not the fastest way to get a bonsai to display at home. However at the end you should be the proud owner of a <span style="text-decoration: underline;">Maple Bonsai</span> that appears to have naturally grown over a rock, making a quite beautiful and unusual display.</p>
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		<title>Deshojo Maple Bonsai</title>
		<link>http://www.maplebonsaiblog.com/maple-bonsai/japanese-red-maple-bonsai/deshojo-maple-bonsai</link>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 22 Sep 2008 19:16:37 +0000</pubDate>
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				<category><![CDATA[japanese red maple bonsai]]></category>
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		<description><![CDATA[<p>Hello, I hope this article informs you about the main areas that require attention during the life of your Maple Bonsai. The subject matter can get quite intense and some of the topics can be contentious even amongst experts. But these short paragraphs contain a lot of very useful information and I hope provide any [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hello, I hope this article informs you about the main areas that require attention during the life of your Maple Bonsai. The subject matter can get quite intense and some of the topics can be contentious even amongst experts. But these short paragraphs contain a lot of very useful information and I hope provide any necessary pointers you are looking for. </p>
<p><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Origins and description.</span></p>
<p>Japan and China are its native countries of origin. The leaf looks slightly like a person&#8217;s hand. When the branches and trunks are young the bark&#8217;s color is usually green, but can be red on certain types; they all become pale gray or brown when older. Of the numerous varieties the red leaved one is the most sought after for bonsai. </p>
<p><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Light and watering.</span></p>
<p>Sit the tree in a spot out of direct sunlight during the hottest part of summer, preferably where it can have sun in the morning or evening. The foliage is dainty; it is likely to burn sitting in direct sunlight. For this reason watering in direct sunlight can be harmful. Watering should be done very early or late in the day and the plant needs to be watered well. Do this every day and give the plant adequate drainage so its roots won&#8217;t rot by sitting in excess water </p>
<p><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Fertilizer feeding.</span></p>
<p>The bonsai needs to be fed every two weeks, use a slow-acting pellet fertilizer. This procedure should be done from spring through autumn, during the other periods it should not be fed but should be left to rest.  If a tree is debilitated or re-potted don&#8217;t feed it; stop feeding for approximately two months. When the hottest summer months come also quit feeding it for a month, perhaps even two. If you would rather use chemical fertilizers then feeding should be done bi-weekly with a balanced mixture and make the compound half-strength.</p>
<p><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Pruning.</span></p>
<p>Never stress the root system by pruning it without pruning the branches because they will be over taxed in an effort to feed too large a branch system. To prevent losing too much sap prune the branches during the fall or winter. Seal the wounds with wound dressing to aid recovery. New growth should be removed by pinching so the tree grows good branches; this also stops long internodes, which are the spaces between sets of paired leaves on the branches. To get the utmost internode reduction, use tweezers and a magnifying glass when the shoot first opens. If long internodes have been grown, repair this by cutting the branch down to the first internode. Let it grow again and pinch correctly to get the appropriate spacing. The aim is to have a short spacing.</p>
<p>The way to get smaller leaves is to prune them off; take them off during the early summer one year and leave them on for the next year, thus rotating the procedure. Remove every leaf from the tree, but let the leaf stem remain. This creates what can be called a false autumn and causes smaller leaves to grow back. Don&#8217;t re-pot and leaf prune in the same year, as this is too stressful for the tree.</p>
<p><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Wiring.</span></p>
<p>Normally, most people would shape maples with just pruning and pinching. When wiring is needed, do it during the summer months as the tree is fully leaved during this period.  You will need to protect the bark and can use raffia for this. Remove the wire after six months at most, preferably before then, to avoid damaging or scaring the bonsai tree.  An alternative method of shaping a younger tree can be achieved by tying it to a stake. This way it can either be pulled straight or bent to a wanted shape.</p>
<p><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Re-potting.</span></p>
<p>The re-potting of younger maples is done bi-yearly and for older ones in two to three year intervals. This should routinely be a spring project; the roots need to be curtailed by half or a little less. If lifeless or damaged roots exist they need to be removed so they won&#8217;t rot and cause further damage. Ideally use 20-30% course sand in the potting mix which can be either a loam or peat mixture. This allows for adequate drainage and lets the roots breathe. </p>
<p>You can find a further article about potting on this site. Please leave a comment as blogging is supposed to be interactive. Thanks for viewing this and come back soon, there is also an RSS feed for this site.</p>
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		<title>Japanese Maple Bonsai   &#8211;  An introduction to this easy growing bonsai</title>
		<link>http://www.maplebonsaiblog.com/maple-bonsai/japanese-maple-bonsai/japanese-maple-bonsai-an-introduction-to-this-easy-growing-bonsai</link>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 22 Sep 2008 19:13:19 +0000</pubDate>
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				<category><![CDATA[japanese maple bonsai]]></category>
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<p>The Japanese Maple Bonsai is a good pick for a newbie in bonsai. It is both easy to grow and take care of, as well as being a fast grower. This maple is similar to the Norway maple, though its leaves are more deeply lobed than its Norwegian cousin.</p>
<p>There are various varieties and the leaves [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img src="http://dc87.4shared.com/img/62028705/ca5b035e/MAPLE_BONSAI__1_.jpg?sizeM=3" border="0" alt="Maple Bonsai" width="150" height="200" /></p>
<p>The Japanese <strong>Maple Bonsai</strong> is a good pick for a newbie in bonsai. It is both easy to grow and take care of, as well as being a fast grower. This maple is similar to the Norway maple, though its leaves are more deeply lobed than its Norwegian cousin.</p>
<p>There are various varieties and the leaves are so colorful, especially in the spring and fall when the leaves alter their color. The red leaves that the Japanese maple proudly displays in the summer increase their brightness in the fall. Its trunk and branches show different hues of red and green.</p>
<p>Indeed the Japanese maple trees are valued because of their foliage, and this is one of the main features that make them a beautiful bonsai tree. There are some varieties that sport gorgeous foliage like gold in the fall. The Japanese Bloodgood maple tree has reddish-purple serrated star shaped leaves showing in the summer and in the fall they turn crimson, thus the name. This particular tree likes the sun, although some semi-shade is good for it. The Japanese Crimson Queen maple tree is a dwarf that is also suited to making a good bonsai tree.</p>
<p><a title="Maple bonsai information" href="http://locatereviews.com/74886463" target="_blank"><strong>Maple bonsai</strong></a> have a good response to the leaves being trimmed, being hardy, and that facilitates creating a great branch structure for the bonsai. They are simple to root from cuttings and also from layering and respond well to both methods. A warning though the red leaf maple does have the problem of weak roots, so if even a small problem occurs the tree can expire. Therefore, red leaf maples are usually grafted into normal rootstocks. The Japanese red maples are normally grafted into the green leaf rootstock because they do better this way than when grafted to their own roots. When selecting one from a nursery examine the graft to see how well it has healed so you&#8217;ll have a good tree for a bonsai.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.kqzyfj.com/click-3688431-241045"><br />
<img src="http://www.ftjcfx.com/image-3688431-241045" width="468" height="60" alt="Bonsai Boy" border="0"/></a></p>
<p>To select a Japanese maple for bonsai a good diameter is four or more inches. This diameter allows for training of various styles. Also, it is a more economical tree to buy. Growing them from seedlings is easy, when buying a seedling that has been started it should be four to six inches in height. When considering seedlings, go with strong ones that have big and low internodes. This enables you to have a bigger stock, which should make the lowest branch on the bonsai be about six inches up.</p>
<p>Put the seedlings in small vessels, they should be pruned down so the roots can populate the containers and the growth slows before making a decision on the new trunk line. This is a good way to begin the Japanese maple bonsai and it should help produce supple rounded lines. The red seedlings are good candidates for medium or large bonsai.</p>
<p>The Japanese <em>maple bonsai</em> is strong and hardy enough that even when neglected if put in caring and capable hands it can be nurtured back to life, and still be trained by wiring into a new shaped. But if too much leaf and branch matter have been left to grow then pruning and a lot of wiring before the tree gains strength could be too stressful. For this reason it is best when resurrecting a tree to let it have a period of rest during its dormant period and start again in the new season.</p>
<p>You can find a further articles about bonsai on this site. Please leave a comment as blogging is supposed to be interactive. Thanks for viewing this and come back soon, there is also an RSS feed for this site.</p>
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		<title>Potty about bonsai</title>
		<link>http://www.maplebonsaiblog.com/bonsai/potty-about-bonsai</link>
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		<pubDate>Sat, 23 Aug 2008 22:32:21 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[bonsai]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[bonsai pot]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[bonsai tree]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[maple bonsai]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[<p>Yes I am potty about Maple Bonsai if you hadn&#8217;t guessed, however this article has a much broader appeal. The subject of Bonsia can cover a broad spectrum of subjects for the enthusiast. One area however does not seem to get much coverage, and that is pots. When starting out the pot should not be [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Yes I am potty about Maple Bonsai if you hadn&#8217;t guessed, however this article has a much broader appeal. The subject of Bonsia can cover a broad spectrum of subjects for the enthusiast. One area however does not seem to get much coverage, and that is pots. When starting out the pot should not be the first consideration however as time goes on it becomes more important. Below is a brief introduction to the subject, leave a comment and I will expand on this more if required.</p>
<p>As with all types of plant pots, Bonsai pots are available in a huge array of sizes, shapes and colours but making sure you select the correct pot for your Bonsai tree can make the difference between a good looking Bonsai and an incredible looking Bonsai. Be warned, though, the pot you pick can have either positive or detrimental effects to the growth of your beloved Bonsai tree.</p>
<p>Q. What type of Bonsai pots should I be considering?</p>
<p> Firstly, if you have a juvenile Bonsai that is still growing quite rapidly you will need to consider several training pots before you decide on a final show pot to exhibit your Bonsai. However, when selecting a Bonsai pot you should never pick one that means you will need to drastically trim the roots. If you do want to reduce the size of your pot or the roots then you need to take it in gradual steps, moving down a pot size at a time before eventually reaching the size you want.</p>
<p> Make sure the pot you are considering has very good drainage and is entirely frost proof, this will help keep your Bonsai safe and healthy all year round whether it is kept indoors or outdoors. If you are selecting a glazed pot, be sure that only the outside of the pot is actually glazed, because the Bonsai will need the rough surface on the inside for the roots to grab onto and establish themselves.</p>
<p>Q. What pot for what tree?</p>
<p> The type of pot you should buy is indicated by the kind of tree you are growing as well as the style you want. Conifers lend themselves brilliantly to naturally coloured, unglazed pots whereas deciduous trees look good in glazed or unglazed and in just about any colours. Experiment a little to find the right pot for you, and especially consider pastel colours for your deciduous trees or a bright coloured pot for a flowering tree.</p>
<p> Also, consider how much room the roots will need for your particular choice of tree. Cascading trees will require a deep pot with plenty of room for the roots to grow down but also so the branches can hang over the side without draping on the floor.</p>
<p> If you have a heavily glazed pot, remember that the colour of the glaze will age and ware off slightly over it&#8217;s lifetime and many people wipe the glaze with French polish in order to speed the process up giving your glazed pot a slightly more natural and aged feel.</p>
<p>Remember the final pot will need to house the Bonsai for many years hopefully, and so as the tree matures take the time to study it and make the right choice.</p>
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