Maple Bonsai Blog

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Lets face it a lot of people have fancied one of those cute little bonsai tree’s for decorating a room or apartment.

So at one point or another a friend or relative in desperation because of a lack of inspiration will buy them a bonsai they have always wanted.

Now the vast majority of people have no idea at all on the basics of bonsai let alone the finer details.

So how do they or you go about buying that dream bonsai tree without ruining a perfectly good relationship.

Simple follow these 3 basic rules or write them down and give them to the person you suspect will be purchasing that bonsai tree, you have always said you wanted.

1. Pick a bonsai that has good roots and branches. We do not want exposed mouldy roots or snapped, stripped branches. No need to be a Japanese bonsai master, poor roots and branches any one can spot.

2. Check the complete bonsai tree over, no apparent damage, diseases or infestation. Again no need to be a bonsai doctor use common sense when assessing the bonsai, you can even ask the garden center staff.

3. Go for something that looks like the ones you see in pictures. If it looks like a classic maple bonsai, has good bonsai type roots and branches, and has no nasty things you don’t see on bonsai pictures. Then guess what it probably is a great little bonsai tree. In this part were looking for the shape and form of the bonsai and is it suitably potted, we don’t want a novice having to re-pot there bonsai tree as soon as they get it.

Now these are very basic pointers but they should go a long way towards helping you get one of the better Bonsai that you see in DIY or other large retail outlets.

Enjoy the start of your new bonsai tree collection.

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Well it’s that time of year again stores all over are selling Bonsai trees. People see those cute little things and have just the spot for them at home. O those poor innocent bonsai trees, no sooner placed around the home then they dry up and die.

There has to be a better way, and there is, grow your own bonsai. It’s really not that difficult just, read a few articles on your favourite bonsai blog or buy a good book . Nothing ventured nothing gained.

Have fun.

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First let me say this information is for those of us in the northern hemisphere, for all those down south  it will be a little (approx. 6 months) out of sync. People keep asking me what to do with their Maple Bonsai in the winter. Well the answer is not a lot, if your bonsai is an outdoor tree leave it outside. You can protect it from the worst frost or winds to stop it drying out but that is about it.

The winter is a dormant period for most trees, so let it rest. Whatever you do do not feed as if there is a break in the weather you bonsai may start to sprout new growth. This could be a disaster if the cold weather returns again.

Here is an article outlining a basic yearly schedule for Bonsai growing, hope this is useful.

The Maple Year Author - Craig Coussins

To facilitate readers in other countries I have used seasons as well as UK months. Please remember that you must take into consideration the variables found within temperature in your own country. Early Spring (February to March) Although you can repot almost anytime this is the optimum period for the majority of Maples. Kashima and Kiyohime will have started to move at this time. Make sure they are protected. / Feed o.10.10. (Zero Nitrogen) every 7 days to stop lush growth but only after the buds have opened. Throughout Spring (March to May) Start plucking out the bud centres Early Summer (June) After the first two feeds start feed High Nitrogen feed to build stamina on young trees. If you want good Autumn colour cut down your High Nitrogen food. If tree is healthy then consider full or partial defoliation. This can be followed with selective wiring. Remember that the tree will have to be looked after as the same as February to May or Spring. The problem in Summer defoliation is Sun Burn rather than winds. Mid Summer (July) Wire trees with Cage (not tight) or protected wire and do any major pruning at this time during summer dormancy. Reduce feeding until mid August or late mid summer. Late Summer (August) Start a weekly feed with low Nitrogen food. Last time for defoliation before fall. Early Autumn / Fall (September) Trim all leaves that grow out of the planned shape. Stop feeding if leaves start to change colour. It should be noted that good fall colour is achieved with little of no feed….but the question is whether or not you want to risk the tree’s health for a short term benefit. Autumn / Fall (October) Complete your feeding with low or Zero Nitrogen Feed Late Autumn / Early Winter (November) Remove any dead leaves and make sure that the trees are protected against winter frosts and wind. Winter (December to January) This is the other time when you can perform major surgery on your Bonsai. Author - Craig Coussins Website: http://www.bonsaiinformation.co.uk

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The Japanese Maple Bonsai play an important part in the structure and design of Japanese gardens. Not just the aesthetic appearance and texture but also on a spiritual level. The art of bonsai goes beyond horticulture and is part of the Zen Buddhist philosophy. Zen and Shinto traditions both play a large part in the design and lay out of gardens. The idea of Zen Buddhism is to be in harmony with nature and not obtrusive to it. Buddhism sees nature as having a soul, so this personifies it, and means it should be respected. The traditional bonsai artists believe that the purpose of this arts miniature approach is to promote the shrinking of human foibles such as greed and self-centred thinking. These bad traits of man promote the unthinking destruction of all of nature according to the belief.

All of the different parts of the bonsai have particular meanings of their own in the Zen Buddhist belief system. For instance the branches stretch towards the sky seeking a richer thought process or enlightenment. The stout trunk carries the responsibility of promoting the spread of the philosophy. The sturdy roots stand for a concrete grounding in the philosophy, which is ultimately bound for heaven.

Maple Bonsai fit into this as they are one of the species that take well to the formal upright style and go well with the skyward stretch towards enlightenment. They are also good candidates for the informal upright style. In this style the trunks is supposed to bend to one side or the other, but not in the direction of the admirer. This mimics the natural bending of trees away from the shading of other trees or objects, or the effects of the wind over time. As stated these trees have a strong upright tendency this makes them particularly suited to these two styles. The Maple Bonsai can also work well with the slanting bonsai style, however it isn’t a good candidate for the cascading or the semi-cascading style.

Although the philosophy of Zen Buddhism and its part in bonsai is interesting, it isn’t a necessary requirement for the cultivating and the enjoyment of these little trees. Today all over the world bonsai fans enjoy a wonderful hobby, that certainly can help you to be peaceful and in tune with nature, but you don’t have to adhere to a Buddhist belief. It can just be used as a tool for decorating the inside or outside of the home.

The bonsai tree can sometimes live for hundreds of years if cared for correctly. They are a lovely, peaceful piece of art that can be given to your children, and this can be repeated for generations to come. These trees are a personal expression of the artist, and therefore no two trees are the same, as in nature. It takes patience to learn how to create a bonsai and failure is common at first, but as mentioned patience is the key. If you want to become a bonsai master it takes time and effort, but you don’t have to be a master to create and enjoy your own bonsai. Just learn some basics, get a tree, and keep it healthy. Enjoy your Maple Bonsai in whatever way suites you, as a piece of art, decoration, or a spiritual representation of nature.

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This particular maple seedling is another fast grower. One of it’s main features is it tends to be bulbous at the base. The bark is a distinctive gray/white and the leaves similarly to other maples are five pointed. A couple of good aspects about this Maple Bonsai particularly for the less experienced is they have a high resistance to disease and can handle a period of drought. This tree can therefor be displayed on it’s own or is ideal for the root over rock style.

This is a style wherein the roots are encouraged to grow over and grasp onto a rock. This mimics what happens in nature when a bird deposits a seed into a natural crevice. The roots will crawl out in an effort to find soil, to get more nutrients after using what could be taken from the soil in the small opening in the rock. When they hit soil they then circumvent the rock. When this occurs the roots thicken out and stand in for the trunk at the very base of the tree.

The display of rocks is an art form of it’s own in Japan called Suiseki, this is one reason rock choice follows a few rules in this method. For starters these are, the rock chosen should have eye appeal, a natural look, and the size shouldn’t over shadow the tree, which after all is the main attraction.

Again the choice of tree for this style needs to be made correctly. A tree that is healthy and has a big root system is a good choice. The roots need to be strong and long enough to hang over the rock. The measurement guide for the roots is one and a half times longer than the rock is high. If the roots of the bonsai you want to use are too short, the problem is solved by planting it in a tall narrow pot so the root system will grow down and get longer. Let the roots grow until they reach the desired length, which may take a year or more, as with all bonsai patience is the key.

When the roots are ready remove damaged foliage and rinse the dirt off of the root ball. Don’t hurt the roots, before washing taking off dirt by hand helps. Now put the tree on the rock and play with the placement to find the best looking arrangement of tree and rock. Put the roots around all of the rock because the arrangement is for viewing from any side. This is not usual in bonsai where the tree normally is expected to be viewed from the front only.

Now the roots have to be secured. Grafting tape is a good thing to use and having someone hold the roots in place while securing them works best. You need to have pulled the tape around the rock fairly tight except at the bottom where it should be tape-less because this is where the roots will go into the dirt.

Next check to see that all of the roots are free on the bottom of the rock. Put the rock and maple bonsai in a container with plenty of clean sharp sand. Make sure the bottom of the tree trunk shows, while the rock is out of sight. Give it a good watering; the tree should stay in this pot for either one year or possibly two. Remember I did say the key to bonsai was patience. It will take one growing season for the roots to exhibit a good showing and during this period they will thicken up. However this does depend on them having been placed correctly. Two years gives the roots really more than sufficient time to thicken. When you check to see if the roots have grow properly and find they haven’t, no worries, simply re-pot them giving the plant one more year to get the roots right.

So as you can see from the description above not the fastest way to get a bonsai to display at home. However at the end you should be the proud owner of a Maple Bonsai that appears to have naturally grown over a rock, making a quite beautiful and unusual display.

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Just getting started in bonsai? This video with tips for beginners will help you learn how to grow bonsai trees.

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Hello, I hope this article informs you about the main areas that require attention during the life of your Maple Bonsai. The subject matter can get quite intense and some of the topics can be contentious even amongst experts. But these short paragraphs contain a lot of very useful information and I hope provide any necessary pointers you are looking for.

Origins and description.

Japan and China are its native countries of origin. The leaf looks slightly like a person’s hand. When the branches and trunks are young the bark’s color is usually green, but can be red on certain types; they all become pale gray or brown when older. Of the numerous varieties the red leaved one is the most sought after for bonsai.

Light and watering.

Sit the tree in a spot out of direct sunlight during the hottest part of summer, preferably where it can have sun in the morning or evening. The foliage is dainty; it is likely to burn sitting in direct sunlight. For this reason watering in direct sunlight can be harmful. Watering should be done very early or late in the day and the plant needs to be watered well. Do this every day and give the plant adequate drainage so its roots won’t rot by sitting in excess water

Fertilizer feeding.

The bonsai needs to be fed every two weeks, use a slow-acting pellet fertilizer. This procedure should be done from spring through autumn, during the other periods it should not be fed but should be left to rest. If a tree is debilitated or re-potted don’t feed it; stop feeding for approximately two months. When the hottest summer months come also quit feeding it for a month, perhaps even two. If you would rather use chemical fertilizers then feeding should be done bi-weekly with a balanced mixture and make the compound half-strength.

Pruning.

Never stress the root system by pruning it without pruning the branches because they will be over taxed in an effort to feed too large a branch system. To prevent losing too much sap prune the branches during the fall or winter. Seal the wounds with wound dressing to aid recovery. New growth should be removed by pinching so the tree grows good branches; this also stops long internodes, which are the spaces between sets of paired leaves on the branches. To get the utmost internode reduction, use tweezers and a magnifying glass when the shoot first opens. If long internodes have been grown, repair this by cutting the branch down to the first internode. Let it grow again and pinch correctly to get the appropriate spacing. The aim is to have a short spacing.

The way to get smaller leaves is to prune them off; take them off during the early summer one year and leave them on for the next year, thus rotating the procedure. Remove every leaf from the tree, but let the leaf stem remain. This creates what can be called a false autumn and causes smaller leaves to grow back. Don’t re-pot and leaf prune in the same year, as this is too stressful for the tree.

Wiring.

Normally, most people would shape maples with just pruning and pinching. When wiring is needed, do it during the summer months as the tree is fully leaved during this period. You will need to protect the bark and can use raffia for this. Remove the wire after six months at most, preferably before then, to avoid damaging or scaring the bonsai tree. An alternative method of shaping a younger tree can be achieved by tying it to a stake. This way it can either be pulled straight or bent to a wanted shape.

Re-potting.

The re-potting of younger maples is done bi-yearly and for older ones in two to three year intervals. This should routinely be a spring project; the roots need to be curtailed by half or a little less. If lifeless or damaged roots exist they need to be removed so they won’t rot and cause further damage. Ideally use 20-30% course sand in the potting mix which can be either a loam or peat mixture. This allows for adequate drainage and lets the roots breathe.

You can find a further article about potting on this site. Please leave a comment as blogging is supposed to be interactive. Thanks for viewing this and come back soon, there is also an RSS feed for this site.

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Bonsai tree video from the band stilltide. Check out more Stilltide at www.stilltide.co.uk or www.myspace.com/stilltide

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