They then started to make comments about how nice the bonsai trees were and one person made a point of dragging me over to look at a “great” 2′ high bonsai that was a bargain at just $120.

Well all of the bonsai including the “great” one that was a Chinese Elm had problems, now to an experienced Bonsai keeper they could all be sorted out. But to me for a beginner all the bonsai I saw presented trouble that would mean a dead bonsai in the not to distant future.

I took the time to explain what the problems where and why these bonsai trees represented potential trouble. The people I was with exclaimed they never would have noticed the faults if I hadn’t pointed them out. So here are a few of the things I noticed and you need to look for when thinking of buying from these types of outlets.

1. Obvious damage and missing parts, these could let disease in and put the bonsai on its last legs.

2. Missing bark and bark damage due to poor wiring and attempts to shape the bonsai tree. Again this might lead to a sick bonsai tree.

3. Look under the pot, most of the bonsai I did this to had roots growing from the drainage holes. This would require either a re-potting or root pruning, possibly both. This is not a task a first time bonsai buyer really wants to have to do when they have just bought their bonsai tree.

4. And finally, I picked up the 2′ high Chinese Elm and quit a few leaves fell off. My friend commented, the bonsai must need watering. Wrong.

Readers of this blog having read the recent posts know exactly what the leaves dropping off means, especially when coupled with the fact the bonsai soil was soaking wet. Just in case you don’t lets put this into context.

Most of the people working in the majority of places that sell bonsai, know nothing about growing them. They are told, go water the plants, and give all the plants in the outlet a thorough soaking, whether they need it or not. Probably doing more harm than good to the new bonsai stock.

Now don’t get me wrong, these bonsai trees would all be OK, for a bonsai enthusiast to grow. However first time bonsai owners need a bonsai tree that requires the minimum input and is as healthy as possible.

So take a good look at all the ones on show and buy the best to start with. Then try drying them out before starting a proper watering regime.

All the best with your new bonsai.

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The winter is a dormant period for most trees, so let it rest. Whatever you do do not feed as if there is a break in the weather you bonsai may start to sprout new growth. This could be a disaster if the cold weather returns again.

Here is an article outlining a basic yearly schedule for Bonsai growing, hope this is useful.

The Maple Year Author – Craig Coussins

To facilitate readers in other countries I have used seasons as well as UK months. Please remember that you must take into consideration the variables found within temperature in your own country. Early Spring (February to March) Although you can repot almost anytime this is the optimum period for the majority of Maples. Kashima and Kiyohime will have started to move at this time. Make sure they are protected. / Feed o.10.10. (Zero Nitrogen) every 7 days to stop lush growth but only after the buds have opened. Throughout Spring (March to May) Start plucking out the bud centres Early Summer (June) After the first two feeds start feed High Nitrogen feed to build stamina on young trees. If you want good Autumn colour cut down your High Nitrogen food. If tree is healthy then consider full or partial defoliation. This can be followed with selective wiring. Remember that the tree will have to be looked after as the same as February to May or Spring. The problem in Summer defoliation is Sun Burn rather than winds. Mid Summer (July) Wire trees with Cage (not tight) or protected wire and do any major pruning at this time during summer dormancy. Reduce feeding until mid August or late mid summer. Late Summer (August) Start a weekly feed with low Nitrogen food. Last time for defoliation before fall. Early Autumn / Fall (September) Trim all leaves that grow out of the planned shape. Stop feeding if leaves start to change colour. It should be noted that good fall colour is achieved with little of no feed….but the question is whether or not you want to risk the tree’s health for a short term benefit. Autumn / Fall (October) Complete your feeding with low or Zero Nitrogen Feed Late Autumn / Early Winter (November) Remove any dead leaves and make sure that the trees are protected against winter frosts and wind. Winter (December to January) This is the other time when you can perform major surgery on your Bonsai. Author – Craig Coussins Website: http://www.bonsaiinformation.co.uk

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Duration : 0:5:27

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As with all types of plant pots, Bonsai pots are available in a huge array of sizes, shapes and colours but making sure you select the correct pot for your Bonsai tree can make the difference between a good looking Bonsai and an incredible looking Bonsai. Be warned, though, the pot you pick can have either positive or detrimental effects to the growth of your beloved Bonsai tree.

Q. What type of Bonsai pots should I be considering?

Firstly, if you have a juvenile Bonsai that is still growing quite rapidly you will need to consider several training pots before you decide on a final show pot to exhibit your Bonsai. However, when selecting a Bonsai pot you should never pick one that means you will need to drastically trim the roots. If you do want to reduce the size of your pot or the roots then you need to take it in gradual steps, moving down a pot size at a time before eventually reaching the size you want.

Make sure the pot you are considering has very good drainage and is entirely frost proof, this will help keep your Bonsai safe and healthy all year round whether it is kept indoors or outdoors. If you are selecting a glazed pot, be sure that only the outside of the pot is actually glazed, because the Bonsai will need the rough surface on the inside for the roots to grab onto and establish themselves.

Q. What pot for what tree?

The type of pot you should buy is indicated by the kind of tree you are growing as well as the style you want. Conifers lend themselves brilliantly to naturally coloured, unglazed pots whereas deciduous trees look good in glazed or unglazed and in just about any colours. Experiment a little to find the right pot for you, and especially consider pastel colours for your deciduous trees or a bright coloured pot for a flowering tree.

Also, consider how much room the roots will need for your particular choice of tree. Cascading trees will require a deep pot with plenty of room for the roots to grow down but also so the branches can hang over the side without draping on the floor.

If you have a heavily glazed pot, remember that the colour of the glaze will age and ware off slightly over it’s lifetime and many people wipe the glaze with French polish in order to speed the process up giving your glazed pot a slightly more natural and aged feel.

Remember the final pot will need to house the Bonsai for many years hopefully, and so as the tree matures take the time to study it and make the right choice.

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This article gives us all hope of still being masters of the art even with dead bonsai.

So don’t give up just relabel them and enter them under a different categorie – good luck.

See the artical below.

Dead Bonsai lives on…

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